Mont Blanc

I had climbed Mont Blanc in 1881 and recently conceived a desire to revisit it. There are some who dispose of the ascent of this great mountain by referring to it as a long, tedious walk over snow fields. I do not share this view. The walk is a long one, but to me it is far from tedious, provided always one be in fit physical condition to undertake it. That person has my sympathy who is unable to derive keen enjoyment from close acquaintance with this magnificent mountain, of the vastness and beauty of whose snow fields one cannot obtain a correct conception from below. The question is often asked whether the ascent of Mont Blanc is hard or easy, but the answer depends largely on the weather conditions and the strength and experience of the climbing party. Given good weather, it may offer no serious difficulties; but the weather is often bad, and then by reason of its altitude and size, it may become a place of great danger. The mountain has a long death roll to its credit, for a great many who have no real interest in or knowledge of mountaineering are nevertheless tempted to climb it merely because it is the highest mountain in Europe, and where such people, being led by inferior guides (always plentiful), are overtaken by a furious storm, it need cause no surprise if they come to grief.

We spent the night preceding the climb at the usual point, namely, the Grands Mulets, splendidly situated at a height of over 10.000 feet in the midst of snow and ice, reaching it in five and one-half hours from Chamonix and arriving in time to enjoy the afternoon and evening views from our lofty position. Avalanches were very frequent this year and we witnessed two of the first order. The first, from the Glacier des Bossons, strewed the path below the Pierre Pointue with great blocks of ice, and would have brought death to anyone using it at that time. The other, lasting several minutes, resembled a splendid waterfall, about 400 feet high and fifty feet wide.

Next morning we left the Grands Mulets at 1.30 a. m., and reached the summit seven hours later. Of this time we were walking about six and one-quarter hours. The condition of the snow was not particularly good, but neither was it bad. The principal points on the route are : Le Petit Plateau, Le Grand Plateau, La Côte du Dôme, Le Col du Dôme, Les Bosses, La Mauvaise Arête, La Côte de la Tournette, La Culotte and the Summit. Perhaps the route may be roughly described by saying that two-thirds of it (to the Col du Dôme) is principally over steep, broad surfaces of snow, either those leading to the plateaus, or the plateaus themselves, while the remaining third is principally along ridges of snow or ice. We experienced all sorts of weather. Between 3.30 and 4 a. m., on the Grand Plateau, we were in a snow storm which threatened at one time to render further progress impossible, but we persisted and obtained our reward in the shape of clear skies later. At 6 o'clock, the weather having changed, it came on to blow strong and cold from the north, and the last two hours of the ascent were made in a wind with a velocity of 30 to 40 miles an hour and with a temperature well below freezing; which conditions, taken in connection with the rarity of the air above 14.000 feet, rendered the last part of the climb a very chilly affair. Once on the summit, we were at a height of nearly 16.000 feet above sea level and 8.000 feet above the line of perpetual snow; and so clear was the atmosphere that we remained there half an hour, notwithstanding the cold, to enjoy the wonderful scene which was spread out before us. Then, descending, we reached the Grands Mulets at 11.30 and Chamonix some three hours later.